Kamicochi: Land of the Gods

Japan’s delicious food and its unique culture make it one of the world’s best countries to visit. Is life really complete without a trip to the country?

Cities like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Hiroshima have attracted most of the media attention. So naturally you would think that for my first trip to Japan I would follow the usual two-week itinerary: stay in Tokyo for a few days, see Mt Fuji, make use of a JR Pass, and take the Shinkansen bullet train straight to Kyoto and Osaka.

Whilst I definitely did visit Tokyo and Mt Fuji, I had a very different plan in mind for the rest of my time in Japan. After four days in Tokyo, I headed straight to the countryside, where I embarked on a trip that would take me through some of Japan’s most stunning mountain ranges in Gunma and Nagano prefectures.

Half-way through my trip, I visited a place called Kamicochi which became an instant travel highlight.

Kamicochi is a stunning river valley tucked away in the mountain ranges west of Matsumoto. Located 1500m above sea level, the valley is surrounded by mountains and bordered by an active volcano which makes it one of the best hiking destinations in the country.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have the time or gear to go hiking through the Japanese Alps. But I did have a whole day to spend in Kamicochi, which gave me just enough time to appreciate how incredible this place is.

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Pristine nature that makes you feel like you’re in a painting

Why you should go to Kamicochi

Kamicochi’ natural beauty is really unique, and I’ve never seen anything quite like it anywhere else. I have been to several national parks in Asia, Australia, and Europe, but I never told myself: “This is a place I must absolutely come back to.”

In Kamicochi, however, I knew straight away that this was a very special place. The natural environment is breathtaking. The valley is incredibly well preserved. The snow-capped mountains make you feel like you’re in Narnia and the clear turquoise waters of the Azusa river are incredibly pure.

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The Azusa-gawa river

Kamicochi currently means “highland” in the Japanese language. But the Japanese once referred to this natural wonder as the “place where God descended”. Although Kamicochi’s official meaning has changed, it’s easy to see why the Japanese gave this place protected status in 1952. Kamicochi might be the closest representation of heaven there is.

Kamicochi is a national cultural asset. The government designated Kamicochi as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty and a Special Natural Monument. From the famous Kappa-bashi bridge, you see why this place is considered a national treasure.

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Is this heaven?

A walk to Myojin-ike pond (300 yen entrance fee) and you also get to appreciate why the Japanese have a strong belief in Shintoism. The Shinto religion is based on a belief in nature which means the preservation of nature is also at the heart of Japanese culture.  According to one tale, Kamicochi owes its beauty to a god which once descended from Mt.Hotakadake and this god is now enshrined at the small Hotaka Shrine.

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Hotaka Shrine
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Myojin pond

The abundance of wildlife is another important aspect of Kamicochi. Those who choose to stay here several days might get to see a black bear. There are many bird species and insects. The Japanese macaque, famous for its distinctive red face can also be spotted.

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Spot the monkey

You could spend the whole day in Kamicochi relaxing on the river bank. But the walking trails take you through endless scenery and it would be a missed opportunity not to explore some of the valley’s well-maintained nature trails.

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The trails are easy to follow

What is the best way to visit Kamicochi?

Most travellers visit Kamicochi as a day-trip from either Matsumoto, Norikura, or Takayama.

If you are short on time, visiting Kamicochi as part of a day-trip is a good option. The walking trails are easy to follow which makes exploring the area in one day highly achievable for anyone who wishes to come here.

However, it is worth noting that access to Kamicochi is restricted. Cars are forbidden due to the valley’s protected status. Getting the ALPICO buses or private taxis are the only means of transportation available to travellers. Getting the bus to and from Kamicochi is very convenient because buses come and go at regular intervals, but hikers need to make sure they don’t miss the last bus out of the valley. So you need to manage your time carefully and avoid walking too far.

Kamicochi is part of the Old Nakasendo Highway which means it is a popular hiking destination. Hikers from all over the world include Kamicochi as part of their hiking itinerary. If you want to hike the Japanese Alps, Kamicochi is a great starting point as the surrounding mountains offer some of the best hiking trails in the world.

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More stunning scenery in Kamicochi

If that isn’t for you, I would recommend staying at least one or two nights relaxing in Kamicochi. There are several resorts and onsens located in the area.  Camping along the Azusa river is also a great alternative. Kamicochi is a very popular camping destination for the Japanese and it has some of the most well-maintained campsites in the country. You don’t even need to bring a tent with you as travellers can rent camping gear on site. Japan is one of the safest countries in the world which makes camping in Kamicochi even more exciting.

My last suggestion would be not to use Kamicochi as a stop-off point between Norikura and Matsumoto. When I visited Kamicochi, I had previously stayed in the Norikura Highlands, roughly an hour’s drive south of Kamicochi. I took the ALPICO bus in the morning, spent the day in Kamicochi, then headed to Matsumoto at the end of the day. There is a luggage storage service in front of the visitor centre where I could drop off my bags. This cost me roughly 500 yen for the day. The service is 100% reliable but you need to collect your luggage before the facility closes otherwise you will find yourself in a tricky situation.

Doing this didn’t make visiting Kamicochi a less enjoyable experience, but I do wish I had a little more time there because the luggage facility closes one hour before the last bus leaves Kamicochi. I found this a bit odd but I guess it ensures people get to their buses on time. If I didn’t have my luggage to collect, I would have been able to explore the valley for an extra hour.

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Appreciate the moment

Concluding thoughts

Kamicochi is the epitome of nature. It is a stunning river valley which possesses some of the most stunning scenery in the world. This is even more impressive considering how accessible this place is. The Japanese have done an amazing job preserving this natural wonder, and they have struck an excellent balance between tourism and the environment.

If it wasn’t for a fellow Japanese backpacker, I would have never seen this place. My original plan was to stay in the Norikura Highlands for a few days and head back to Matsumoto. Yet thanks to him, I had the opportunity to see one of Japan’s most beautiful protected areas.

Fellow travellers, make sure to include Kamicochi on your next trip to Japan.

You will never want to leave.

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